Monday, April 29, 2019

OF FOOD AND WINE

February 2019; South Island Trip - Part 2

So, with a somewhat heavy heart, we left Golden Bay on Waitangi day (6th Feb.) and headed back over the Takaka Hill Road to the Tasman Bay side. We were heading for the small town of St Arnaud for one night which meant a right turn just before the town of Motueka onto the Motueka Valley Road heading inland. This was a fortuitous choice of route. Just before we departed Golden Bay we heard about a big bush fire in Pigeon Valley, South of Nelson. This turned into the worst bush fire for many years with road closures which may have affected us if we had headed straight back to Nelson (see link below). The smoke could be seen from the road on the other side of the ranges to our Northeast.


At St Arnaud we stayed at B&B accomodation which I can best describe as disappointing. I will make it a general point not to slag off anything or anywhere on this blog but, suffice to say, we were glad it was only one night and we will not be staying there again!
The little town itself was interesting and we had a good walk around part of Lake Rotoiti, and a beer and snack in the local hotel. 

Lake Rotoiti - reminded us of Scotland
The amateur ornithologist in me was interested to read on the information board that a flock of Black-billed Gulls had recently flown in and I managed to get a few reasonable photos of them splashing about on the lakeshore. This gull is endemic to New Zealand, endangered, and the majority of its population is in the southern half of the South Island, so it was good to see them here. It looks a lot like the much commoner Red-billed Gull (particularly juveniles which have blackish bills), but has a more delicate structure, a thinner bill, and is more often than not found inland by lakes and rivers rather than the seashore.

Black-billed Gulls
After our single night stay, it was back on the road up the Wairau Valley to Blenheim, the centre of the Marlborough wine growing region. We stayed at another B&B in nearby Renwick and this was much more than expected with wonderful hosts, a good sized room and excellent breakfasts. 
One of our first stops on arriving was the tourist information centre where we found out the Marlborough Food and Wine Festival was on the Saturday of our stay and tickets were still available. Serendipity or what!!

First of all, though, was a winery tour on the Friday, a must do when here. Although the B&B we stayed at had bicycles for hire (free to guests), we decided a small group bus tour would be best for us. So, not too early on the Friday morning, we got on the "Hop'n'Grape" tour minibus for a trip around four wineries, then the Moa Brewery for a beer to finish. We sampled numerous wines, most good, some not so great, but, all in all, a great day out. Our driver, Cam, was very knowledgeable, having previously worked at a winery, and was able to take us "behind the scenes" at the winery he used to work at. You, too, can sound knowledgeable when here as when asked what type of grapes are growing in the vineyard you drive past. If you answer, "Sauvignon Blanc", you have an 85% chance of being right in the Marlborough District.

"Savvy Blanc" Grapes
So, on to Saturday and the Marlborough Wine and Food Festival. This is now a big event, the publicity blurb stating it is New Zealand's original and longest running festival of its kind - 2019 its 35th year. Interestingly we went to it in 1987 when we had not long arrived in NZ (we spent that year in Wellington) and it was a fairly small affair then.  It is much larger now with a large array of food and wine stalls. It was also a warm, sunny day so a great time was had by all.


Suitable temporary tattoo for parents of three daughters
And so, for our final full day it was off to the Omaka Aviation Heritage Museum near Blenheim. This was the aviation geek's (my) day out. It was very interesting and recommended for anyone interested in aircraft or First and Second World War. Most of the exhibits are dioramas which tell the tale of war in the air admirably.

When you took your hunting piece up to have a pot shot at the enemy
See story below
The tale of "Spud" Hayter. He was a New Zealander in the RAF who was shot down during the Battle of Britain. He bailed out of his burning Hurricane, landing in the grounds of Great Swifts Estate where a cocktail party was in full swing. The wounded airman was patched up by a female doctor who was at the party and, naturally, offered a glass of champagne. The doctor later sent him a bill!!!
"Spud" survived the war and returned to farming in NZ.

The next day we said farewell to the "mainland"*, driving back to Nelson to board the plane to Auckland. A great holiday!
* The South Island is often called The Mainland.



Sunday, April 21, 2019

SO, TO BEGIN

February 2019; South Island Trip - Part one

Unusually for us, this trip was in our adopted home of new Zealand rather than venturing overseas. It was (as with a lot of them) about a year in the planning.
We have very good friends in Golden Bay, South Island and we have been down to see them several times over the past ten years but, until this year, only as a long weekend away. This trip was a 10 day trip to have a bit of a tour of the upper South Island as well.

We flew Auckland to Nelson - considerably cheaper than Hamilton to Nelson and no need to change planes at Wellington (really don't know why we didn't do that on previous trip/trips but maybe it's because we are now 20 minutes closer to Auckland and a corresponding time further from Hamilton airport after moving house a few years ago).
An Avis rental car from Nelson - decided to "splash out" and have a new(ish) car rather than the "rent-a-dent" types we have had on previous trips - for the very interesting drive from Nelson along the Tasman Bay coast and then over the Takaka Hill road to Golden Bay. This road was washed out on the Eastern side by Cyclone Gita in February 2018 cutting off Golden Bay, with the only access via boat or plane for some time. Check out:


There is still a 3Km or so stretch which is single track controlled by traffic lights with up to a 15 minute wait if your timing is wrong.

Golden Bay is an absolute gem of a place to visit and (in our humble opinion, as they say) should be on any overseas visitor's itinerary - time permitting. We stayed (for the fifth time) at Adrift on Golden Bay, a boutique motel in a stunning location - see photo below.


View from the studio deck; Adrift on Golden Bay, Parapara, NZ
The weather was absolutely stunning, too, but that has its disadvantages as everywhere was very dry with extreme fire risk (see next post).


So, we relaxed, had some good food at our friends' house, and also with them at a restaurant in Takaka, walked through the bush to Milnthorpe beach, strolled along the main street of Takaka, walked around Te Waikaropupu ("Pupu") Springs, swam in the sea at Parapara, and generally relaxed and chilled out. 

I have to put in a "plug" for the Mussel Inn, about 3km up the road from Adrift. This a brewpub, whose ales are very good and have a small but excellent menu, the portions huge, and excellent value. We make a point of going there at least once on our Golden Bay visits.


No excuses for missing it as there is a sign on the road
as you approach on the left hand side on the way from Takaka to Collingwood


My Good Lady, Carol, checks out the architecture on Milnthorpe Beach


The amazingly clear water at Pupu Springs


That's it for now. I shall publish this and produce part two of the tale of this trip when I feel the inspiration (or, whatever!).